A Parisian pied-a-terre on the isle of dreams
Renting an apartment in the French capital is the smart way to go for independent travellers
FLORENCE CHONG
The apartment is exquisitely French in furnishing and design, right down to fresh pink and white roses CHRISTOPHE Chastel believes in creating the right first impression for his guests. In our case, this starts with pick-up at Charles de Gaulle airport by a chauffeur who offers a running commentary on all matters French during the 45-minute run to the city, then retrieves our keys and walks our baggage up three flights of stairs.
As we step into our serviced apartment on Ile St Louis, facing Notre Dame cathedral across the Seine, we know that Chastel has delivered. Staff have turned on heaters the night before to ensure a warm welcome. The apartment is exquisitely French in furnishing and design, right down to fresh pink and white roses on the antique mantelpiece.
Indeed, if we were repeat guests, Chastel and his business partner, Philippe Pee, having stored our winter coats in our absence, would have them hanging
ready in the closet; our favourite books and CDs would also be laid out. Instantly, we would be at home in Acacia, our Parisian pied-a-terre.
Acacia is located on Quai d’Orleans, with stunning views from the windows and outdoor balcony, including bateaux mouches plying the Seine. This apartment
is one of 40 exclusive lodgings on Ile St Louis offered via Chastel and Pee’s Guest Apartment Services.
The apartments provide a base from which to explore Ile St Louis, the Left Bank and the St Germain arrondissement. Famous institutions such as the Louvre are within easy walking distance.
Ile de la Cite is described as the cradle of Parisian civilisation and stands right at the geographical heart of the city. The island is said to have maintained its role as a religious and judicial centre for Paris through the Middle Ages. Ile St Louis preserves a villagelike existence, its narrow one-way streets cluttered with shops and restaurants all within five to 10 minutes’ walk of the apartment. So it is here that we grasp our dream of living in Paris, though only fleetingly for seven days.
In the laneways, we buy freshly baked croissants and baguettes for breakfast, so deliciously French with freshly brewed cafe au lait. The main thoroughfare is Rue St Louis en l’Ile, where boutiques, hotels and supermarkets crush side-by-side with creameries, delicatessens, butchers, bookshops and arts and crafts nooks.
We discover the cheapest and most interesting shops in the eastern half of the island, where the Martin family, for example, has been baking baguettes a l’ancienne several times a day for a great many years. Right next door is the M. Bernard Lefranc cheese shop, where we queue for fabulous French cheeses such as Morbier and Vacherin and Roquefort. A little further along is Berthillon glacier, described as a Parisian institution when it comes to ice cream.
For a stand-out meal, we opt for the relatively new Itineraires at Rue de Pontoise in the 5th arrondissement. Chastel introduced the owner of one of Sydney’s finest restaurants to the restaurant and he now dines there frequently during visits to Paris.
Australians clearly have forged a rapport with Chastel and Pee as we now make up 40 per cent of guests; Americans account for 45 per cent.
The strategy has been to keep the company small so personalised services can be offered. They also maintain a secrecy veil over the identities of some of their internationally known guests.
Chastel established his business with a single apartment in 1993. His was one of the first companies to offer short-term apartments in Paris. Aside from Acacia, we could have chosen to stay in a smaller studio for €150 ($226) a night or a private townhouse with butler for €2100 a night; minimum
stay is seven nights. The limousine pick-up (€76 a trip) is optional.
Our week sets us back €1890, plus €38 for electricity (we exhausted our free quota), probably due to what even Parisians admit was an unseasonably cold spell.
Checklist
Chastel and Pee are happy for guests to pop into their office any time to request theatre, museum or opera bookings (they charge no commission) or anyother assistance. The office is at 9 Quai de Bourbon, and is open from 10am to 6.30pm on working days.
More: guestapartment.com.
A Personal Guide To The City's Best
Stephanie : I had a very happy renting experience through guestapartment.com, which specialises in rentals on the Ile Saint Louis. They have very helpful young men.
SALA VIP - Paris, onde curtir e ficar
Paris, city of poultry
I rented an apartment in Paris in the city's heart, on the Ile St Louis. Four minutes from Notre Dame, two minutes from the river. Mild jet lag had me up at 6 am, already light with a pearly sky.
The owners of Guest Apartment Services, Philippe & Christophe, specialise in lovely older style apartments, and they are extraordinarily gracious. A bowl of gorgeous peonies is in the room, later a bottle of champagne appears in the refrigerator. They happily arrange anything at all - theater tickets, airports collection, train tickets, restaurant bookings. They recently had a holiday in Australia and were so charmed by the experience they want more australians to come and try their very superior apartments in Paris (and Yes I paid full price).
LIFESTYLE FOR RENTS
Paris Want to know where some Australia's top chef stay when they hit France ? Look no further than this private apartment overlooking the Seine. It's a favorite home away from home for Janni Kyritsis ans Stephanie Alexander (see their postcard in p. 181). Guest Apartment Services is a boutique firm specializing in short term rentals of luxury apartments with personalised concierge services.
Rose apartment (pictured) is situated in an 18th century mansion and has two levels - comprising living area and kitchen downstairs and bedroom upstairs - and this gorgeous balcony overlooking the river. " Mr Kyritsis wanted to live life à la Parisienne in a place where he would have the comforts of a traditional french home and be able to cook, entertain or just relax, so he came to us " says the Guest Apartment Services director Philippe Pee. Rose apartment rents for 3000 $ a week.
For other rental options, see www.guestapartment.com
Luxe à tous les étages
Ici les vitrines des agences immobilières sont des fenêtres ouvertes sur l'infiniment cher. Si le studio sur cour se négocie a 500 000 - et suscite notre accablement, en revanche notre imagination s'emballe au gré des 2 millions d'euros exigés en contrepartie d'un appartement « normal ».
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Ce rêve est (partiellement) accessible grâce à Christophe Chastel et Philippe Pée fondateurs et associés de Guest Apartment Services. « C'est louant à un architecte américain le 100 m2 où je vivais que l'idée m'est venue de démarcher les propriétaires de l'île Saint Louis et de leur proposer le principe de location haut de gamme à court terme très recherchée » explique Christophe Chastel, la quarantaine épanouie et prospère. Une demande majoritairement américaine - et un peu italienne - à laquelle Philippe et Christophe ont répondu en apposant leur french touch et une palette de services qui font leur réputation dans l'île et outre atlantique où même le prestigieux magazine Town&Country s'incline devant les prestations uniques.
D'abord il y a les appartements à proprement parler : des joyaux 17e pour la plupart, meublés dans l'esprit des lieux ou bien radicalement contemporains. D'un grand studio tendu de brocard et de poutres apparents (1 750 € / semaine) à un palais du quai de Béthune où les boiseries Louis XV répondent aux moulures Louis XVI (3 738 € / semaine) en passant au boudoir de l'hôtel particulier du petit Marigny, voilà une déclinaison de l'élégance parisienne assez revigorante.
Mais le génie des deux associés réside dans le prolongement du concept qui dépasse d'une tête celui des palaces. Non seulement ils offrent l'exclusivité de l'île Saint-Louis mais encore dispensent-ils tous les services et options d'un grand hôtel (lits King Size, Internet, câble, service limousine, réservation à l'opéra, tous corps de métier disponibles 24h/24, femmes de chambres, etc.). «... Et je donne mon portable à tous nos clients qui peuvent me joindre en cas d'urgence. Nous faisons de l'hôtellerie de luxe mais sans l'uniformité des hôtels.
Guest Apartment Services specializes in short-term rentals of some of the most beautiful Parisian apartments I have seen. Each exclusive property is carefully chosen for its innate charm and authentic character, and it has been decorated in a comfortable Parisian style with beautiful period furnishings, nicely equipped kitchens, and modern bathrooms. I can assure you they are wonderful ...
Nothing is faded, out of date, or displays even a hint of that shabby-chic décor often finds in French rental properties. All are located either in the beguiling Ile Saint Louis or in the Marais around Place des Vosges. Some have quiet garden views; others have sweeping panoramic picture-postcard outlooks. From the smallest studio on a quiet courtyard with a lovely magnolia tree to an elegant town house near place des Vosges, complete with indoor swimming pool and garden - and the staff to maintain them - you can be assured that Christophe Chastel and Philippe Pee and their staff provide you with a memorable Parisian stay.
All apartments include weekly housekeeping and linen service (daily housekeeping service is available), cable television, stereo with CD, private telephone and fax, and all major appliances. The small studios, however, do not have washer-dryers. Arrangements can be made for airport transfers, a car and driver during your stay or for trips out of Paris, a personal chef, babysitting - whatever is needed to enhance your stay.
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Renée Fleming's Paris
The 45-year-old opera superstar tells us what she loves most about her second home base
Cosy quarters "Even, before I bought my own place, I rented furnished apartments through Guest Apartment Services. Their offering are all located on Ile Saint Louis - so you're right on the banks of the Seine." (...)
City samplings "I usually head for la Brasserie Bofinger after a performance at the Opera Bastille. Their choucroute, the alsacian sauerkraut dish, Is my favorite. I also love au Pied de Chameau, a family style marroco eatery, where belly dancers perform at your table. The best place for dessert ? Pierre Hermé. The Lychee and rose cake is sublime."
Gallic goods "I decorated my entire apartment at open-air antiques markets like Clignancourt. But it's not fun unless it's a bargain. I had a ball at Salle Drouot, an auction house near Opera Comique., when I've bought a carved armoire from Provence that dates to around 1900. It would have cost five times as much in the U.S.!"
Caroline Sorgen Kaye
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In Paris Pied-à-Terres : in paris sind heiss begehrt. Besonders wenn sie auf der Ile St-Louis leigen. Vor allem dort, aber auch im Marais vermietet Guest Apartment Services privatwohnungen auf Zeit. Grösses Single- Appartement mit voler aufstattung ab 1820 euro/Woche
Traveler's Notebook
A Paris "Pied-à-Terre"
Recently Gil Maurer, a retired publishing executive, and his wife, Ann, did something we all dream of : they called Paris home for a month. Among the couple's many discoveries was a great rental apartment that served as their base. The Maurers enjoyed it so much that we asked Gil to share the story of how they found it.
Dear T&C,
Then Ann saw a small add for the London Connection, a company that specializes in upscale, short-term London rentals. It also listed a Paris Connection and its web address. I went on-line and looked at the best floor plans and photos I'd seen. Eventually we found an apartment in the arias district that suited our needs: two large bedrooms with king-size beds, two bathrooms, a nicely equipped kitchen. Pricey but within reach. We took it.
As our arrival date approached, I was apprehensive : I've never done something as risky as choosing a place sight unseen to live in for a whole month. What if we hated it ?
When we got there, we were happy to find the apartment, on the fourth floor of a 17th century building, was far better than what we hoped. High ceiling - maybe twelve feet. Spacious parlor and dining room with floor to ceiling windows. Sunny. Nicely decorated. There was a good deal of street life in the neighbourhood, but the bedrooms overlooked a courtyard, and at night you could have heard crickets, had there been any. Everything was close by. I walked over to rue des Archives- two blocks away- for my morning paper. A block in the other direction was a great bakery for baguettes and croissants. On our own corner, opposite a tempting pastry shop, was a well stocked grocery.
The local company that handeld our booking on behalf of the Paris Connection, Guest Apartment Services Paris, is owned by Christophe Chastel and Philippe Pee. They and their assistant Claire Cholet, did everything to make our stay a delight, including being our concierges for tickets and reservations. One day we visited a few of Guest Apartment's other listings. Most were on Ile Saint Louis, and some were quite grand. One had a small swimming pool in the sous-sol. Several like so many Paris apartments were quirky.
All, however, had the character that can make for great memories. We liked ours so much, in fact, that even before we left Paris, we decided to take it again. (...)
Follie sulla Senna
Varcare la follia del terzo Millennio ospiti delle Ville Lumiere, la citta que più di altre rappresenta lo spirito europeo di questo secolo, è un' emozione. Il modo miglioere per coglierla è affittare un appartamento sull' Ile Saint Louis, il cuore antico della capitale. Un palcoscenico privilegiato per assistere ai grandiosi festeggiamenti del Capodanno, che avranno come teatro le rive del fiume
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l cielo sopra Parigi si illuminera dei fuochi d'artificio più stupefancenti che la citta abbia mai visto, mentre il mondo entrerà nel terzo Millennio. E il palcoscenici privilegiati per assistere al spettacolo sono nel cuore della capiatle : le rive della Senna e l'Ile Saint Louis, l'isoletta piu esclusiva della Ville Lumière. Gli eventi per celebrare la fine del secolo e del Millenio sono tanti, grandiosi e prenderanno il via della prossima estate. Infatti e già iniziata la corsa alla prenotazione degli alberghi ancora disponibili e non sarà facile trovare posto per la notte piu lunga del Novecentto. E scarsa anche l'offerta delle case : l'uso di affitare appartamenti ammobiliati, assai diffuso in Gran Bretagna, e piuttosto lontano della mentalita francese, anche se resta la soluzione migliore, che permette tra l'altro di ricreare l'atmosfera familiare, da condividere anche con amici. Le case disponibile sono rare e, vanno fissate subito, considerando que in certi casi sarrano esaminate a luglio o addirittura a novembre. Le agenzie specializzate sono pochissime, di cui una, la Psr, raggiungibile solo via internet : al computer sfilano foto, piantine e descrizioni di 940 allogi, dal monolocale al grande appartamento.
Ecco perqué il Guest Apartment Service Paris è un'organizzazione unica nel suo genere : i proprietari, Christophe Chastel e Philippe Pee, gesticono una trentina di allogi di charme situati principalemente sull' Ile Saint Louis offrendo, in più, un servizio personalizzato, dallo Champagne per accogliere gli ospiti alla prenotazione di un biglietto per l'Opera.
Uno degli appartamenti, piu sontuosi è quello detto del « Professore », contrasegnato con il codici AQA, perque arredato da un docente di interior design alla Florida State University di Tallahassee con risultati superlativi sia per la raffinatezza e la ricchezza del mobilio sia per la cura dei dettagli. Si trova su Quai d'Anjou, sul secondo piano senza ascensore di un hôtel particulier del 1640, que appartene al marchese de Marigny, fratello della celebre madame Pompadour. L'allogio è amato da intellettuali di passaggio a Parigi in cerca di atmosfere rétro. Si compone di tre stanze spaziose e magnificamente arredate : la sala d pranzo (con una tavola que puo ospitare fino a otto persone), il salotto, ma anche l'angolo libreria ricco de rari volumi antichi ; la camera da letto è un trionfo di tendaggi e stoffe pregiate. E poi pezzi de valore come il como del XVIII secolo, la bergère rivestita di velluto del Settencento, il parquet Versailles originale, il camino, le statue e i dipinti. Il bagno è di anni Trenta con specchi e mosaici d'epoca, mentre la cucina e attrezzata con frigorifero, forno normale e a microonde, piastre di cottura eletriche e lavatrice. Puo ospitare fino a quattro persone (due nella camera e due nel divano-letto del soggiorno). Se si è in gruppo di amici, è anche possibile affitare l'appartamento adiacente, ideale per una coppia. Data l'alto valore di mobili e suppellettili, sono richieste garanzie di sovabilita agli inquilini, nel caso si dovesse rompere o rovinare qualcosa. ¨Per il medesimo motivo si affitano i locali solo ad adulti, limitazioni compreensibili, visto lo standard dell'appartamento.
Nello stesso edificio, al primo piano, l'agenzia mette a disposizione anche un monolocale di 40 metri quadri, codice Dqa. Appena entrati, si trova a sinistra ilo cucinino con dotazione completa e, subito dopo, il salotto arrichito da un grande specchio dorato che domina il camino ; una porta-finestra si apre su una terrazza affaciata sulal Senna. L'allogio è adatto a tre persone : nel mezzanino e collocato un letto matrimoniale alla francese (1.4 metri di larghezza) mentre, appogiato a una parete di legno, c'è un divano-letto. (...)
A qualque centinaio di metri, sul quai Bourbon, un edificio secentesco, che si distingue per un'ampia ad ed elegnate hall, ospita un altro apartamento di prestigio, identificato con il codice Aqb1. Lo chiamano « il panoramico » per la vista incredibile e l'impressione rare di avere Parigi a proprie piedi. Dalle numerose finestre del salotto lo sguardo spazia 180 gradi passando della chiesa di Saint paul a Notre Dame, dalla Tour Eiffel al Pantheon.
Nei 135 metri quadri di superficie sono disponibili solo quattro posti letto : due nella camera per gli ospiti e due in una stanza con le pareti che sembrano cieli per un gioccho di trompe-l'oeil, lo stero da azionare con il telecomando incassato nel muro e la vasca da bagno disposta ad angolo. L'ampio salotto color ocra si caratterizza per il pavimento interamente ricoperto di tapetti, per le belle tende a fiori e per i comodi divani cosparsi di cuscini. L'atmosfera è calda e sofistica insieme, per la presenza di statue cinese e mobili rare giapponese. La cucina, con friggitrice e barbecue, è spaziosissima. Anche in questo caso, vista la presenza di mobili preziosi e oggeti da collezione, sono richieste garanzie di solvabilita ai locatari.
Dai due balconcini dell'appartamento al primo piano di un palazzo settecentesco, sempre in Quai Bourbon, la rockstar Mick Jagger e il direttore d'orchestra Lorin Maazel si sono affciati prima di un loro concerto per contemplare Parigi. In questo allogio de 135 metri quadri, codice aqb2, le travi in legno a vista formano ina macchia di colore fra le pareti e gli ampi divani del salotto, mentre una spessa tenda di velutto rosso cela allo sguardo l'alcova col il letto matrimoniale. Disposta sul mezzanino. Anche in questo caso l'atmosfera particolare che si respira è creata da soluzioni d'arredo come l'enorme arazzo in tinte pastello sul tema dell' Arca di Noe. I ritratti incorniciati e il mobiletto veneziano secentesco dipinto a mano.
Non ha la vista sul fiumeperque e collocato nell arteria centrale del l'Ile Saint Louis , l'appartamento di 100 metri quadri in rue des Deux Ponts, codice Isl. Qui il cenone va apparecchiato nel soggiorno attorno al tavolo in stile Luigi XVI e puo essere accompagnato con musica dal vivo, perque un pianoforte perfettamente accordato e a disposizione degli ospiti. Copie di statue antiche, vecchie stampe, poltrone in stilo Direttorio e mobili d'antiquario creano un'atmosfera molto parigina. L'appartamento si suddivide inoltre in una cucina all'americana e in due camere da letto che, insieme a un divano-letto in salotto, possono accogliere fino a sette ospiti.
L'ultima proposta scelta tra le offerte dell'agenzia Guest Apartment Service Paris consite in un ampio monolocale di 55 metri quadri in rue Saint-Louis, codice Strsi. Caratterizzato da soffiti alti 4.5 metri, l'ambiante si compone di un salotto camera da letto a due letti matrimoniali suddivisi tra loro da un separé. Le grandi finestre sono ingentilite da tendoni e il parquet è in parte coperto con un tappeto turco. La cucina, che si trova in un locale a parte, e giocata sui toni del bianco e del rosso. (...)