Right Bank? Left Bank? We split the difference and have made this little island in the Seine in the fourth arrondissement our Paris home. Connected to both banks and Ile de la Cité (and Notre-Dame Cathedral) by several small bridges, Ile Saint Louis is like a village in the city, its narrow streets and handsome townhouses unchanged since the 17th century. Most things we need can be found on the island: a boulangerie or two, a famous ice cream shop where there are always queues, cheese (and truffle saucisson) from la Ferme Saint Aubin, wine from Depot Nicolas, steak frites at les Fous de l’Ile. Otherwise, it’s a short stroll for coffee, left to Shakespeare and Company or right to le Peloton Café in the Marais (run by a New Zealander). Lunch too is in the Marais at Metropolitain, our favourite little bistro with modern fare and a lovely waiter who learned his English behind the bar at Brisbane’s Broncos Leagues Club. We first discover the island thanks to Christophe Chastel and Philippe Pée, who base their apartment-rental outfit here, helping Australian guests feel completely at home. Our favourite pied-a-terre, Jasmin, is tucked beneath heavy oak beams atop an ancient, narrow, crooked building on Quai de Bourbon, with windows opening on to the river. It could not be more romantic, nor could this little island in the city; guestapartment.com
By Christine McCabe
