~ A Parisian pied-a-terre on the isle of dreams ~

Renting an apartment in the French capital is the smart way to go for independent travellers. FLORENCE CHONG

CHRISTOPHE Chastel believes in creating the right first impression for his guests.

In our case, this starts with pick-up at Charles de Gaulle airport by a chauffeur who offers a running commentary on all matters French during the 45-minute run to the city, then retrieves our keys and walks our baggage up three flights of stairs.

As we step into our serviced apartment on Ile St Louis, facing Notre Dame cathedral across the Seine, we know that Chastel has delivered. Staff have turned on heaters the night before to ensure a warm welcome.

The apartment is exquisitely French in furnishing and design, right down to fresh pink and white roses CHRISTOPHE Chastel believes in creating the right first impression for his guests. In our case, this starts with pick-up at Charles de Gaulle airport by a chauffeur who offers a running commentary on a ll matters French during the 45-minute run to the city, then retrieves our keys and walks our baggage up three flights of stairs.

As we step into our serviced apartment on Ile St Louis, facing Notre Dame cathedral across the Seine, we know that Chastel has delivered. Staff have turned on heaters the night before to ensure a warm welcome. The apartment is exquisitely French in furnishing and design, right down to fresh pink and white  roses on the antique mantelpiece.

Indeed, if we were repeat guests, Chastel and his business partner, Philippe Pee, having stored our winter coats in our absence, would have them hanging
ready in the closet; our favourite books and CDs would also be laid out. Instantly, we would be at home in Acacia, our Parisian pied-a-terre.

Acacia is located on Quai d’Orleans, with stunning views from the windows and outdoor balcony, including bateaux mouches plying the Seine. This apartment
is one of 40 exclusive lodgings on Ile St Louis offered via Chastel and Pee’s Guest Apartment Services.

The apartments provide a base from which to explore Ile St Louis, the Left Bank and the St Germain arrondissement. Famous institutions such as the Louvre are within easy walking distance.

Ile de la Cite is described as the cradle of Parisian civilisation and stands right at the geographical heart of the city. The island is said to have maintained its role as a religious and judicial centre for Paris through the Middle Ages. Ile St Louis preserves a villagelike existence, its narrow one-way streets cluttered with shops and restaurants all within five to 10 minutes’ walk of the apartment. So it is here that we grasp our dream of living in Paris, though only fleetingly for seven days.

In the laneways, we buy freshly baked croissants and baguettes for breakfast, so deliciously French with freshly brewed cafe au lait. The main thoroughfare is Rue St Louis en l’Ile, where boutiques, hotels and supermarkets crush side-by-side with creameries, delicatessens, butchers, bookshops and arts and crafts nooks.

We discover the cheapest and most interesting shops in the eastern half of the island, where the Martin family, for example, has been baking baguettes a l’ancienne several times a day for a great many years. Right next door is the M. Bernard Lefranc cheese shop, where we queue for fabulous French cheeses such as Morbier and Vacherin and Roquefort. A little further along is Berthillon glacier, described as a Parisian institution when it comes to ice cream.

For a stand-out meal, we opt for the relatively new Itineraires at Rue de Pontoise in the 5th arrondissement. Chastel introduced the owner of one of Sydney’s finest restaurants to the restaurant and he now dines there frequently during visits to Paris.

Australians clearly have forged a rapport with Chastel and Pee as we now make up 40 per cent of guests; Americans account for 45 per cent.

The strategy has been to keep the company small so personalised services can be offered. They also maintain a secrecy veil over the identities of some of their internationally known guests.

Chastel established his business with a single apartment in 1993. His was one of the first companies to offer short-term apartments in Paris. Aside from  Acacia, we could have chosen to stay in a smaller studio for €150 ($226) a night or a private townhouse with butler for €2100 a night; minimum
stay is seven nights. The limousine pick-up (€76 a trip) is optional.

Our week sets us back €1890, plus €38 for electricity (we exhausted our free quota), probably due to what even Parisians admit was an unseasonably cold spell.

Checklist:
Chastel and Pee are happy for guests to pop into their office any time to request theatre, museum or opera bookings (they charge no commission) or anyother assistance. The office is at 9 Quai de Bourbon, and is open from 10am to 6.30pm on working days.

More: www.guestapartment.com